It has nothing to do with quantity and all to do with a total capacity. Take the number of packs X number of cells X voltage of each cell (3.7) as long as you are below 222 Wh you are fine on the standard bat safe. The other sizes have different specifications, they are 50Wh for the XS and 444Wh for the XL.
Calculation formula is Volts x Amp hours, and add all the values that are inside the safe.
(e.g. a 3S 2200mAh battery is (3 x 3.7V) 11.1V x 2.2Ah = 24.4Wh). This value is also usually printed on modern battteries as well. Remember the value is cumulative!
We tested the regular size box many times to this capacity, actually much higher. Don’t pack in cells, it’s the swelling of the cells during a fire that can pry open the lid and cause the fire to escape. PS: The XL box was tested with 500 Wh (two 700 size packs).
Yes, you can, every time I tested a Bat-Safe I used the same box over and over. There is no loss in protection. I have seen some melting of the wire way in a very bad fire. But only to the rubber pull tab. I figure if you ever have a fire in the Bat-Safe, spending another 60 on a new box would be the best buy you ever made!
I have put two full charging set up myself (balance and charging wires). If you want more make a notch in the wire way to allow more room. I have gotten into a habit of just running one 6s balance lead into my box, I just plug in the appropriate cell count balance lead from the battery, seems to work fine. Small gaps in the wire way seal are ok, as they may leak soot, but will not leak fire. Tom
Please remember this is a very inexpensive device for its performance characteristics and quantity of features. Shipping is our number one expense and we knew the sheet metal box had to be as thin as possible to prevent excess weight if we wanted to minimize costs. This candy tin technology works perfectly for this requirement. Unfortunately, minor dents and scratches are possible during manufacturing and shipping. The boxes safety will not be compromised by small imperfections. Please be understanding of this manufacturing flaw if it happened to be on your box. But by all means. If you feel your box is not safe. Send me a pic and I will evaluate it. Tom
No, we filter out soot and fire only. If you have a fire the smoke will dissipate with time. If you are home, get a window or two open asap and avoid the fumes. I have not tested the toxicity of the fumes from a battery fire coming from the Bat-Safe. During capacity testing, I always avoided the smoke, but could not help breathing small amounts in. I never felt any ill effects from this even in confined tests. Tom
The lipo bags do not work with a battery over about 1000 mah. The chance of a fire while storing is quite low. So it’s not a big issue. The bags actually can make the problem worse. Focusing the exhaust in a jet. And do not have any soot protection. I hate the bags as they were a pain to use and really were worthless. That’s why I did the bat safe. Don’t use a bag in the bat safe it would be useless. Keep the bat safe super easy to use is the best thing you can do. That way you will use it every time. Tom
The lid must press evenly on the foam seal to keep your Bat-Safe performing correctly.
If you notice a gap, follow these steps:
Quick check: Close the latch with a sheet of paper between the lid and the box. The paper should be firmly held all around.
If there’s a loose spot: Your latch’s wire ring likely needs a small adjustment. This can happen rarely after transport or heavy use.
Hotfix: Refer to our illustrated Hotfix Lid Gap Manual (June 2024) here. It shows how to gently bend the latch wire using two pliers so the lid seals tighter.
Re-test: After adjusting, repeat the paper check to confirm that the lid now seals properly.
Tip: The process is simple, takes only a few minutes, and ensures your Bat-Safe maintains its full safety function.
